We are in Lasithi region in Eastern Crete, my first time in Greece. It’s our first proper holiday since Cambodia in 2019, before the world changed.

Reached by small boat from our hotel jetty, the small island of Spinalonga at the mouth of this harbour was a fortified Venetian settlement from the 16th century, defending this part of Crete. Later it was taken by the Ottoman Empire and in 1903 became a leper colony. You can walk around the cobbled pathways and ruined buildings in less than an hour. 

We spent the evening in the small town of Elounda, where we feasted on proper Greek moussaka (as recommended by the Daily Telegraph) and sat for a while in the vividly-decorated church while the priest sang and recited the Creed.