Yes, I watch makeup videos. I didn’t know how to put on makeup properly until I moved to Paris in 2005, when a full face was de rigeur, and I’m always looking for hints and tips. Lately, though, in my laid-back little DB enclave, I have wearied of pink glitter and four or five colours on each eyelid. A feline flick somehow it doesn’t work with crows’ feet. Who knew?
Just as you might want to follow a decandent evening trying out the tasting menu at one of London’s top eateries with a lunch of fresh crusty bread, a red country wine and some gooey Reblochon, so it is with a makeup look. Sometimes it’s nice to be pulled together but pared down. Polished yet understated. Self-indulgent and yet grown-up.
And so it was that I found myself looking at Swedish make up artist Kirsten Kjaer Weis’s range of organic cosmetics. On sale on line (from their own frustratingly shonky website but also from Net-a-Porter inter alia) it’s still very definitely a high end brand. The idea is that using environmentally-friendly makeup should be as much of a pleasure as your Tom Ford or Chanel. You know how the packaging of the brand brings joy and reinforces your purchase decision? Well this really does. You buy your core products, in their beautiful metal packaging. When you finish them, you don’t toss all that expensive marketing in the bin. No. You simply replace it with a refill wrapped in environmentally-friendly recycled cardboard. Less waste, less landfill. Salved conscience. (I am fully aware that makeup in itself is unnecessary but so is smartly french cheese)
The Northern European sophistication of KW’s shade range is generally geared towards those with fairer skins but even for this small brand, I have managed to find colours that suit me. Diverse skin tones are used in the marketing, though, so it’s not as if we women of colour are being completely ignored. Products in this pared-down range are generally multi-use: lip tints can be used as sheer blushes; blushes as bronzers; eyeshadows as eyeliners and brow powder.
The cream products have been designed to be applied using the warmth of fingers and I found this approach effective, though I also had a successful finish with their cute little foundation and blush brush.
Things I liked
The Beautiful Oil
KW recommends that this horrendously expensive oil is used as a primer/moisturiser under foundation, but also suggest that you use it at night as skin care. Well, I have quite enough skin care already but I must say that a massage with a couple of drops of this really enhances the look and feel of the skin on my face. The oil does tend to show through foundation on the t zone of my combo skin, but I imagine that if your skin is more mature or drier, this wouldn’t be that be that much of a problem. I’m so pleased with the effect of this oil that it’s replaced every other primer under any foundation.
Cream foundation
This is a definite yes please, when you eventually ascertain your correct shade. It’s not really possible to judge from the name or, in fact, pictures on any website. I looked for people on YouTube who looked like me and discovered after a while that I’m either Velvety or Transparent.
The cream melts into your skin, gives buildable coverage with a comfortably dewy finish and lasts all day. It can also be used as a concealer if you’re not after a super-polished look, and I’ve found this very effective.
Pressed powder
I do like this but it has not usurped my beloved Hourglass Powder on my dressing table. I carry it around with me and swish it from its beautiful compact with a fluffy brush when I’m starting to look a bit too dewy. It can leave a whitish caste on my warm-toned skin and I’d like to see a pale yellow version please.
Cream blush
These are definitely favourites and have elbowed out my old Nars blushes, especially since Nars stopped being cruelty-free in order to tap into the Chinese market. The shade range is quite subtle but I have three that suit my skin well. The blush is really easy to apply with your fingers, dries down down matte and stays put. I’d say it was especially flattering for mature skins.
Things I liked less
Eyeshadows
I loved the packaging of the individual eyeshadows and the shade names: including Grace, Wisdom, Generosity and Earthy Calm (pictured) I know. I’m such an airhead – a marketer’s dream. The light colours do lack pigmentation though, and travel all around my hooded eyelids even when I use primer. However that is true of most other eyeshadows I’ve tried so they’re not going in the bin. There’s a pleasing sheen to these soft powders in contrast to high sparkle colours promoted by all those Instagram women. I’ll persevere with these. They might stick better with a better eyeshadow primer.
Eye pencil
Unfortunately I probably would not buy these again. I found that they transferred almost immediately onto the upper part of my eyelid in some hideous clown face, which is disappointing given their premium price. Perhaps a younger skin would not find this so much of a problem. The textures are soft and the shade range is pleasing, though.
Lipstick
Sadly this lipstick has a poor colour payoff and simply not as much pigment as we’re led to believe. The website models must have applied lots of coats. It has a disconcertingly waxy finish and tastes sweet but doesn’t stick around for long. I adored the sophisticated and refillable packaging but the lipstick (shade Adore is pictured above) simply does not live up to its premium price. I must admit that I am judging this lipstick on the day that I have ordered lipstick from Pat McGrath – the best lipstick in the world – so that has probably made me harsh. Unlike Adore.
All in all a curate’s egg but well worth an explore, for an understated environmentally-friendly treat.